August 2002 for 3 nights as a couple, October 2018 for 3 nights with the larger family + June 2020 for 2 nights with the family
Venice has so many tourists and is almost Disneyworld-like with lines of people waiting for gondola rides, but there are still very strong local traditions in this incredibly unique city. As soon as the coronavirus lockdown lifted in Italy there was no doubt about where we would go first. To see Venice without being mobbed by cruise ship passengers did not disappoint. We hope it is able to recover economically, but does so in a manner that allows others to get to see it like locals once did.
Like the rest of our travel guides, this is not an all-encompassing account of everything we did. We do not want to make a list of ‘Best’ or ‘Must-do’ experiences since we know it depends on your personal preferences. These are only our personal favorites and they are divided into two groups: “Avventura Favves” and “Other Things We Liked”.
The Avventura’s Venice Map – see all of our Favves on the map
The Avventura’s Italy Map has the same information as the Venice map plus our other recommendations throughout Italy.
Overview
We’ve had so many different experiences with Venice. We spent a few blissful days of our honeymoon there in 2002, we visited with three generations of family in 2018 and then most recently visited during the middle of the Covid crisis. Each time, we repeated some of our favorites and tried to explore something new. There is nothing quite like the experience of stepping out of the train station and looking onto this incredible city. It almost doesn’t seem real with the vibrancy, color, and movement over the water in front of you. And even though we have now had the experience three times, the poignancy of the moment has not diminished. Our favorites in Venice are largely focused on hitting some of the cultural icons and then quickly getting off the beaten path. There is a strong and passionate food scene in Venice that is found off the typical tourist routes – ranging from casual cicheti to extremely well-done seafood and spritz’. And we have found a few creative ways to experience the classics in a fun and interesting way (gondolas, masks, etc). Venice has long suffered from overtourism, but it still remains one of the most magical places on earth.
Avventura Favves
Paint your own mask for Carnevale with Ca’ Macana – This was a super cool experience for our kids where they got to design and paint their own masks. There were many shapes and sizes to choose from and they provided excellent tutorials on how to achieve different effects. Not only did the kids love doing it, but we also had a built-in souvenir to take home.
Row Venice – Don’t just ride in a gondola, be the gondolier. This is a company run by local Venice women who race traditional Venetian boats called battelina. They are similar to gondolas and they provided lessons and tours to learn how to row the boat yourself through beautiful quiet canals.
St Mark’s Basilica and Square – This is crowded, but such a unique and special spot that there’s no way we couldn’t list it as one of our favves. We highly recommend the Rick Steve’s Tour (download the app and listen as you walk). We normally don’t pay the extra fee for entrance to the museum in a church, but to be able to go up the steps was worth it at St. Mark’s. We loved the view over the church, the square, and to be able to see the other landmarks (like the horses and clocktower) up close.
Doge Palace Educational Tour is the absolute best way to see the Doge Palace with kids. It was very fun and also very informative. For 80 euros we got entrance for 3 adults and 3 kids plus a private guide who spoke English and led us on a scavenger hunt through the palace (we did The Palace with a Tale to Tell tour).
Gondola Tour – Yes it’s touristy, but if it’s not a busy time it’s magical. The guides aren’t fatigued and can be very fun and informative, and you get to see a city from a very unique perspective if you’re not just looking at more gondolas on either side of you. So only do it at night, early in the morning, or if the lines aren’t long. The price is fixed now at 80 euros (120 at night) so there isn’t the annoyance of having to haggle like in the past. They were half-price during Covid, but only 4 people were allowed per boat, so we ended up paying the same but at least the adults got a quiet, romantic ride separate from the kids.
Rialto Bridge + Fish Market – This bridge is so beautiful and has a great view of the Grand Canal, but can be crazy crowded. Again, go early in the morning. After you see the bridge and view, head to the fish market.
Eat and drink like a local by enjoying delicious cicheti (these are little toasts with a variety of toppings that you pay for by the piece). They pair perfectly with a glass of prosecco or a spritz (instead of the usual Aperol Spritz, try the more bitter Select Spritz). Osteria Al Squero is a good choice and overlooks the ‘garage’ where they repair gondolas. Right nearby is Cantine del Vino Già Schiavi which has better selections of the cicheti. We also loved Bar All’Arco for their seafood cicheti. Be sure to ask for the special of the day. We were repeat visitors as well at the nearby Al Merca, where you can grab mini sandwiches with cured meats and cheeses, as well as the requisite Spritz or glass of wine.
See a real Venice neighborhood (Santa Croce) and enjoy gelato at Gelato di Natura (San Giacomo location). It’s nice to rest on a park bench in the piazza and watch the true citizens of the city moving about their day.
Nevodi Restaurant – We’ve been to this delicious local neighborhood restaurant twice. Everything is extremely well-executed and it’s a nice walk from the main square along the waterfront. You can make a reservation via Facebook.
Bacaro Vintido – We stole away from the kids one night and really enjoyed this cozy casual spot. They had books for sale, many wines by the glass, tasty simple food that changes daily, and a very friendly staff. Call for a reservation.
Our Airbnb (www.airbnb.com/rooms/2035612) was perfect. We liked staying close to St. Mark’s Square, but away from the crowds on a small canal. It had plenty of room for the five of us.
Other Things We Liked
Boat tour of Murano and Burano. Their famous glass and lace products are extremely expensive but it’s neat to see the traditional practices to be able to somewhat appreciate why they are so pricey. We especially loved the colors of the Burano homes, which is a traditional little fishing village. We were a group of 7 so we decided on a private tour with Citywonders. The local guide was very nice and it was a good opportunity to speak with a local. We wouldn’t say it was an amazing tour but the price was a lot lower than other private tours. Another option would be to do a self-guided tour and take the public transportation water taxis.
Restaurants: 6342 a le Tole – This is a vibrant pizza and seafood restaurant that we enjoyed with the larger family. Ristorante ai Barbacani – This was a charming restaurant and right on a canal. If you’re only 2 people, ask for the table in the door overlooking the water.
Cheap food options: We visited Farini bakery several times for a quick coffee and breakfast. There are also several takeout pasta places which is an inexpensive way to eat freshly prepared pasta on the go (Dal Moro’s, Tuttinpiedi, Bigoi).
Logistics and Miscellaneous Notes
- Take the train from the mainland – as we mentioned previously, the view coming out of the station for the first time is mesmerizing and one of the more memorable experiences of our lives.
- Drive and park – We chose the Traghetto parking lot for the balance of cost versus time (20 euros per day). From there take a water taxi to wherever you need to go.
- Traghetti (water taxis) are the public transportation option in Venice but they aren’t inexpensive and there are no discounts for kids. When we had a group of 7 we opted for a private transfer from the train station down the Grand Canal to a stop near our hotel. When it was just the 5 of us, we used the traghetti. Tickets are available for purchase at the kiosks located at each stop.
- There’s an international airport in Venice. Our friends from Chicago found it to be the cheapest option, so you could consider flying there. Not a bad way to start a trip in Italy.
- Similar to taking a gondola ride, walking around St Mark’s at night is touristy and overpriced, but we would not recommend skipping the experience. Maybe just walk by the historic cafes and listen to the music rather than paying 10 euros for a coca cola or 20 euros for a cocktail. If they were half the price we’d definitely sit down.
Next Time We Go
- Carnevale seems like it would be a crazy time to visit Venice with so many extra visitors but have heard good things from the Italian people, so we would consider it.
- View the art collections at Punta della Dogana and Guggenheim collection
- See an opera or another performance at Teatro La Fenice
- Attend the famous Art Biennale exhibition, or if it’s not the right year then walk through the garden and explore some of the pavilions from different countries.
- Enjoy a glass of wine and a panino at La Bottiglia near Basilica dei Frari – they must be doing something right because it always seems to be packed with people and so we’ve never tried it.
Have any questions or suggestions for Venice? Post them in the comments below or contact us at LewinAvventura@gmail.com.
The Avventura 